Day 16 Finsterre to Santiago de Compostela

What joy -we had only the two of us in our room last night, so uninterrupted sweet sleep. Was able to send a short group email. Packed up and walked along the water in search of cafe con leche. Ran into the couple we had seen in Melide, and were able to travel back to Santiago in a van that had dropped off a group of pilgrims earlier. Same price as the bus, and much less time than the local bus. The HUGE bonus was that I would be able to get to the noon service at the Cathedral (due to time had willingly given this up in order to see the sunrise the previous night).


After communion, I moved forward to speak with a biker I had seen on the Camino, and who was standing very close to the rope barrier. With delight and surprize, I saw the botafumerio being loaded with incense and realized we would witness the swinging of it! The silver botafumerio is a censer standing 1.6 m tall and weighing 60 kgs. It requires several men to swing the rope. I was as close as humanly possible to the botafumerio as it swung in a huge arc, flying through the air, trailing incense. My heart was so full - a final blessing of the Camino. I took a video and will include it here. The video is quite long, but you will see that the whole thing is quite the performance. Luckily Brian figured out how to straighten the video so that you are not looking at it sidewise. Thanks! You will find the video at the bottom left of this post.

It is traditional for pilgrims to pay homage to St. James the Apostle. There is a small camarin (or little chamber) behind the high altar where one can hug the statue of St. James and say a prayer of thanksgiving. Then to the crypt to visit what remains of the tomb of the Apostle and his disciples. There is an excavated chapel on whose altar rests the Apostle's Urn - a silver chest fashioned by local creftsmen in 1886. Inside the chest are the mortal remains of St. James the Apostle and his disciples Theodore and Athanasius. Photos are prohibited. On the kneeling bench I say my prayer of thanksgiving for a safe journey from Oviedo.


A late dinner after some shopping (there were windows loaded with amber). Drool...
Paris tomorrow, then home to Vancouver. Hard to believe. It is always wonderful to travel; equally wonderful to return home.

Day 15 Cee to Finsterre

Cool morning; lovely leisurely walk towards Finsterre. Wind turbines lit by soft orange sunrise. Met local folks en route - farmer with sheep, baker truck blaring a horn. At Sardineiro could see the beach - blue and beautiful. First glimpse of Finsterre is as a resort town... coloured homes, slate - so many kms of slate walkway! Sand, beach, sun...stunning visage of end of the Camino Xacobeo. Booked into the Albergue de Paz for 10 euro each - less crowded than the municiple albergue. Collected our Compostela Finsterre, enjoyed a cerveza, dipped our feet into the Atlantic, then home for the usual shower and washing of clothes. Will walk out to the lighthouse for sunset - a meaningful closure to this wonderful adventure.
The 3km uphill walk to the lighthouse is on a narrow somewhat dangerous road (at least in the dark coming home). Enjoyed cheese, wine and olives and watched the sun sinking into the Atlantic. Peaceful and joyful. Sweet. Endings and beginnings.

All I ask of you is forever to remember me as loving you...

It seems fitting to end with this line - Eileen taught this round to me, and we sang it along the trail. These are the English words that fill my heart and bring tears to my eyes. Each moment is precious. Every friendship. Every adventure.

Day 14 Santa Marina to Cee

Breakfast, then asphalt! Again, early morning fog with sunrise. I love this time of day. Uphill on a good track with wind turbines all around; the sound is strong. Green grass, pine forests and heather to Dumbria. Took a break at Capela de Nosa - visited the healing spring. A very long roadway of packed earth and planted forests. Despite the claim in the guidebook, could not see the sea from the 23.508 marker. Windy, with hedges on either side of us as we walk. What joy when you finally see the water - after all the walking.

Settled into the Insua Hotel - 15 euro each. Another angel arrived to drive us to the pharmacia. Met other pilgrims in town. Hard to believe that tomorrow will be the last day of walking in Spain.

Day 13 Negriera to Santa Marina

Breakfast, then on the road by 0800. Sunrise as we reached the church after
leaving the medieval arch at Negriera. Absolutely stunning light with
wonderful woodland trails. Wind turbines on the horizon. So many gifts
of nature. Spain has given the world an amazing gift of trails and accomodation.

I know that Canada has great hiking and trails, but accomodation for grateful Camino pilgrims does not exist as it does here in France and Spain.

Corn fields, eucalyptus groves, pine forest, crysthanthanums, roses. Saw an ewe, with twins. Passed a working bee, clearing our trails (THANK YOU!) - this one led into a corn field.

Green green grass to Vilaserio. Had lunch at a bus shelter in Cornado, out of the sun. 33 degrees - way too hot for walking on the long long stretches of asphalt; fields of corn and cows into Santa Marina.

The albergue is wonderful. Laundry is drying in the sunshine. I am sitting outside, sipping scotch. Ahhh...life is good.

We have a hotel reservation for Cee - 33kms - yike! Dinner basic, minimal value when compared to other pilgrim menus.

Day 12 Santiago de Compostela to Negriera

A later start, could see the spires of the Cathedral as we headed out of Santiago. A glorious walk - figs, kiwi, apricots, apples, peaches, grapes - taste treats for the eyes and tongue.

One very steep ascent after lunch, with benches (6!!) to rest along the way. Stopped at Ponte Maceiera - a beautiful rest spot at the rear of a restaurant overlooking a 15-16th century stone bridge and waterfalls. Propped up my feet and enjoyed a cool lemonade.

Settled later into Hotel Tamara - a lovely room. Managed reservations for tomorrow. Enjoyed a dinner for 7euro - bean soup, chicken and frites, tarte de Santiago, and the usual bottle of wine. I remember the fellow we saw en route, walking with his laden mule. I wonder where he is tonight...