Day 11 Arca to Santiago de Compostela

Cold morning, 46 degrees. Needed my turtle light initially as we walked slowly through the dark forest. Gone is the solitude. It is harder to walk with quiet intention or with prayerful meditation as there are so many more pilgrims on the trail - all with the same desire of finally reaching Santiago. The energy is hurried; most people wish to arrive for the 1200 mass at the Cathedral. I focus on breathing in the scent of eucalyptus and am left in the dust of their intention.

It is on this final day of walking that I spot the first other Canadian Company of Pilgrims badge on a pack sack - this gal from eastern Canada had walked from Le Puy, and her slow smile that lit up her face matched her slow and troubled gait. She was hurting - "feet, legs, back...you name it!" She was nevertheless determined, and happy to be almost there. We shared some laughter and some stories, and parted.

Sunshine, tarmac. There are lots of new signs (since 2006 when I walked this same path) - perhaps in preparation for the holy year in 2010.

Walked into Santiago in high spirits. Fell into the smiles and arms of familiar pilgrims posing for photos in front of the Cathedral. Many people just sitting in the sunshine, drinking in the sight they had walked so far to see. The Cathedral IS massive.

Agreed to meet Melanie for drinks at 1800 - most of that crew are headed for a huge celebratory dinner buffet. For most pilgrims, this is their final destination, having walked from many countries, on many different paths towards Santiago. We have chosen to continue to walk to Finsterra. I am wanting something simple, a long hot shower, and bed.

I was saddened to learn that they had swung the huge botafumerio at the noon service, and I had missed it! Apparently a group of Japanese had paid the fee to see it swung. This event does not occur every day, as it requires 6 men to pull the rope that swings the massive silver incense burner across the cathedral in a huge arc, trailing smoke and the scent of incense. I watch Melanie's video...several times... and imprint the swinging botafumeiro in my mind.

Joined the line to receive my Compostela (attained if you walk or bike a minimum of 100 kms into Santiago). It is both a personal and group celebration. We have decided to complete the pilgrim rituals once we return from Finsterra.

I saw Mark in the square as we were drinking beer. He draws me into his arms for a joyous dance as he sings some French dancing song. His voice is joined by others who recognize the words. My feet, earlier sore and aching, move lightly.

Enjoyed a bowl of caldo soup, home and to bed. Tired and a full heart.

Day 10 Melide to Arca

Happy Birthday, brother Bob in Prince George! Only 50.5 kms to Santiago. Beautiful forest walk with autumn colors. At the beginning of the day, someone had set up a stand selling fresh raspberries and jam, with jugs of water for the perigrinos. Such local kindness.

Stopped at Boente, took (I think!) some good shots of the Apostle Santiago in the church.

Iron worked fences with shells. The light was lovely, filtered through the trees, drawing you forward.

Passed the memorials to Guillermo Watt and Myrna Brennan; a reminder that life is fleeting .

Took a group shot at 20kms!! Decided to walk to Arca to lessen the distance needed to walk into Santiago – 33kms walked today.

Local albergue full, booked into a private hostal called Mapoula – it is lovely – Internet (but too busy and I have no interest in lining up), washer/dryer, outdoor seated area (UP the stairs, a little harder with sore legs/feet after a very long day of walking). Painted lovely colors – green, turquoise. Our dorm has a large water feature, soothing and soft.

Enjoyed some wine in the outdoor area, walked over to have caldo soup, then bed and the usual snore zone.

Day 9 San Roman to Melide

Still dark as we began walking – the sky turned a deep yellow. Purple and pink heather on either side of the path, below low banks of fog. Evidence of logging.

Stopped at Casa do Pointe for breakfast. The proprietor brought some delicious local honey to “help my cough”. It had the consistency of childhood thick liquid vitamins, with the taste of ambrosia. I ate extra. :)

Fields of goats and corn with plenty of interaction with locals. Steep steep paths with rock outcroppings – lots of energy here, paths festooned with borders of heather. I am reminded of the birthday of my niece Heather in Prince George, and as divine intervention at the 66, 245 marker (painted in peace flag colours) we found a home of two women – one who is a silversmith, and the other a musician from Argentina. We were invited guests, shared a coffee, and listened to beautiful guitar music. I bought a small piece of her work for Heather, and wrapped it with two sprigs of purple heather. A gift of the heart.

Noon time walking meditation, full of joy and thankfulness, towards the crest of a hill. Wind turbines moving in the distance, fog moving in on cat feet. This is such peaceful countryside with planted pine and eucalyptus forests; the scent is divine.

Arrived in Melide after 6 kms of unpleasant asphalt. Melide is the joining point with the Camino Frances, so expect way more people on the trails from here on in until Santiago.

Spent a relaxing time with Bent, drinking beer in the sunshine. He leaves tomorrow via bus to Santiago. Decided to give pulpo one more try – one more last try it turns out. It remains low on my best foods list.

Enjoyed the orange night sky with Irish songs before bed – the gift of voices. A great day.

Day 8 Lugo to San Roman

Lights came on automatically at 0630, so up and packed and en route. Made an incorrect uphill turn at an arrow way marking (veering left rather than right) so lost 20 minutes. A group of local hikers willing, but unable to help us find the correct road. Of course the remedy is always to go back to the original way marking– in this case, downhill.

Walked along the river near the site of an old Roman Spa. Passed through several single narrow, dangerous tunnels, and through signed villages not mentioned in the guide book – Santa Matias, San Vincente – with fields of coloured squash. Although there was to be no place to stop for food, we found the Meson Assearas Bar, and enjoyed a rest in hand-carved chairs. The nearby church is aged, and locked.

Towards Bacurin, passed herds of cows and goats; laden apple trees. Found Bent from Denmark resting under a tree, not unlike some old painting. Through Taboeiro to San Roman de Retorta where it began to sprinkle, then rain in earnest. The bar before the refugio filling with tired pilgrims, but we continued to find the new albergue.

The albergue De Guntin is lovely with slate floors, the small kitchen dividing the two dorms of 12 beds total. There is a separate but attached outside toilet, shower, with plenty of hot water. Bliss! Showered, then into the rain to walk back to the bar. I am often amazed at how quickly my body and energy recovers after a long day of walking. Enjoyed sliced meats, bread and beer, compliments of a fellow perigrino who said he was celebrating his birthday.

Our albergue is full; in the bar there was a couple with sour faces waiting to be picked up for a lift to a hotel somewhere. Our crew full of laughter, beer, wine and coffee that was flamed at the table.

Back at the albergue, I pulled the plastic bottle with the remaining Bokma Jonge Graanjenever (carried from Paris, purchased in the Netherlands) from my pack. Everyone had a wee taste to toast the end of another fine day.

Day 7 O'Cadavo to Lugo

Morning meditation, then a rainy walk through beautiful glades of trees with forest paths, crocus, blackberries, hazelnuts and scores of apple trees.

Watched a machine conveyor belt mulching corn stalks; flatter lands, some fields with horses and large tracts of planted trees. Fences are made with gigantic slabs of slate.

Into Santa Maria de Gondar, sharing a path with cows being herded by a man on a bicycle. As always, a friendly wave and hello.

Through Carballido, with beautifully made stone walls, fences with shells.

Finally the sight and site of Lugo (of Roman origin more than 2000 years ago – the oldest city in Galicia). You can enter via the gates of Saint Peter – the walled city was declared a heritage site in 2000. There are 10 gates and 46 defense towers. You can walk around the entire city on top of the wall. Having walked 30 kms today, somehow that did not appeal. :)

Chose instead to share a glass of beer with a group of tired pilgrims. I've learned to quite enjoy beer after the heat of the sun.

Visited Lugo Cathedral. Construction began in 1129; the ground plan is a Latin cross and 3 naves. The tympanum of the north door is of Christ as Pantocreator. The main altarpiece is the work of Cornielles de Holanda (1538).

There was a loud rock concert underway outside the Cathedral! My ears rebel - now so used to focusing each day on the sounds of nature.

The Episcopal Palace (built in 1743) was under wraps, so could not get a sello. The Plaza Maior (main square) is lovely – huge trees, flowers, benches, monuments, cafes. Many fashion shops, also jewelery. I shop mostly with my eyes, my pack being small and full. :)

Day 6 Padron to O'Cadavo

Awakened rudely to some one's alarm at 0530. Grr. It was much too early to begin walking – too dark to see. When we left at 0800, it was still dark. Lots of uphill walking, with great low-lying fog banks that lasted most of the day. Walked higher and higher to the wind turbines. We are now in Galicia, so following the sun ray portion of the way markings.

Fall colors, earthen, deep carpet of pine needles at times. Flowers, heather , gorse.

At the recommendation of the guidebook (use road if wet – yup! Very wet.) we walked the road to Lastra. Up, up, up. Met the bikers from Brazil again – doing repairs. Uphill yet again, then downhill into O' Cadavo.

O'Cadavo is an important town. Alphonse the Chaste fought the Islamic army at the nearby campo de Matanza. He traveled through these same lands on his way to Compestela between 820 and 830. I imagine the thousands of footsteps that have gone before me - where I am now placing my feet.

When you walk, it is not just you that is moving, but all past and future generations. In the so-called "real" world, time is a measure. In the true world nothing exists beyond the present moment. Be fully aware that everything has happened, and that everything that will happen is in each step you take.

Lovely refugio and great dinner of rabbit, vino tinto, salad and torte de Santiago.

Day 5 Campiello to Padron

Awoke to very heavy rainfall falling in thick sheets. Had to consider the safest option - walking over the mountains in the rain and fog not the best, and not recommended in terms of safety or visibility. Or take the lower route, safer but less scenic. We so wanted to take the high road...yet must be sensible about the very steep route ahead of us. My shins ache with each step downhill, even when I shorten my stride.

Claus and Stephanie from Bavaria leave for the high route wrapped in rain gear, and plastic bags. They are quickly swallowed up by raindrops.

Consulted with the shop owner and we organized to travel with Manuel over the high road. He was a truly delightful fellow. Finally the rain gods rested and we were afforded breathtaking views of the Los Hospitales route. Photos...so many photos...











The dam at Presa de Embalse is now a collection of derelict construction, albeit impressive in size.






Passed the albergue at Grandas de Salime - apparently housing rats. No thank you!

The albergue here in Padron is good, but cold. It is 1850 and we are crawling into our sleeping bags for warmth. Employees of the Proteccion Civil greeted us and issued receipts (a first) for the 3 euro charge.

These towns(Fonsarada and Padron) have many restaurants and bars that serve pulpo (octopus). It is cooked, chopped into pieces, then served with olive oil and sprinkled with cayenne. I have tried it several times, but have yet to develop any passion for it. The wine at these pulpo places is served in bowls. For me, even the wine (white) is less tasty than the local reds which are delicious and very economical.

Day 4 Bodenaya to Campiello

Out the door by 0800, overcast and rain throughout the day. Way too much road walking – my shins and hips ache. Steep zig zag hills with some confusing way markings near the highway.

Past a former pilgrims hospital from the middle ages; gardens full of caldo greens. Saw a manicured bush that says "hola". Thru El Pedregal, to Santa Eulalia de Tineo, with the Capilla de San Roche (dark inside). Then followed the Friar's Walk with the sundial/metal sculpture of a pilgrim.

Lunch in Tineo at a bar, got a stamp from city hall, then food as advised for the “remote area”.

Magnificent views, the path itself through a forest of huge trees, with the valley unfolding below. Met an older fellow who has set up his home to encourage pilgrims. Took a photo of him with Eileen, so must send it to him. Heather everywhere, roses, blackberries, wind turbines abound.

Reached the Alto de Piedratecha – 796 m. Huge fields of corn.

Amazingly, an angel on a tractor stopped on the highway(safely!), then came to talk to us about accommodation and routes further on. He told us that the albergue at Borres was reportedly full.

Have a hotel in Campiello. Cold, and tired. Raining heavily. We are a varied group at dinner – French, Bavarian, Spanish, German, Canadian and American. The shared meal was delicious– vegetable soup, bread (hot with meat inside), pasta, tripe casserole, bean casserole, fresh fruit, yogurt. And yes, wine. :)

Day 3 Cornellana to Bodenaya

Left the Monastery cloaked in fog; through Suburriba with apple trees, blackberries and hazelnuts for munching. Fields of corn; bird songs overladen with sounds of construction workers building a new road. Up up up, paths strewn with falling leaves, sun shining on gum trees, sometimes water music.

Saw a back porch laden with garlands of drying beans.

Leaving Salas one can see the huge new bridge structure curving into the distance.

Was invited into a yard to view closer the bunches of drying corn – such local kindness. A warm thought to hold close as it was then uphill with two vicious zig zags. I am thankful for the dry weather, as the path surface was often uneven with loose stones. Would be even more difficult in the rain. A frightening piece of walking on the highway, the new highway looming above; wind turbines larger than before. The earth is a study of various hues, up again to green hued plots of land and finally into Bodenaya.

This place is a wonderful haven – we are only 3 in this room – a gift on the Camino of many persons sharing rooms. Pine walls, camino mementos, photos gleam from the walls.

Day 2 Esclamplero to Cornellana

Foggy leaving Venta del Escamplero. Surrounded in mist, watched the sun rise – stunning.

A sweet moment – early morning passed a milking barn, complete with farmer, cow, and 5-6 cats lapping a dish of warm milk, the air cold above it.

Blackberry bushes and hazelnut trees. Paul delights in feeding the horses apples he carries in his pockets. I discover that my beloved cows also like apples.

Through Paladin and Laracha with huge cliffs behind the bridge over Rio Nalon. Alongside the main road to Penaflor were three imposing horreos – a good way marker.

Market in Grado; poor waymarking thru the town, perhaps hidden with the bustling market stalls – cheese, nuts, olives, herbs – I look, but there is so little room in my pack for extras, so settle for food for lunch only.

Walked high high under the umbrella of sun. At El Fresno, the route was not distinguishable – huge road construction; earlier past homes lined with flowers. Led the small group down a signed path, but had to turn back as the path ended; socks full of burrs, with a found straw hat for Paul. A bonus as his face is quite sunburned.

Past huge kiwi farms, too hard to eat. :)

Each person walking seems to have their own guidebook, in their own language. We share directional and historical information – especially in spots where the signage is unclear, non-existent, or the landscape has changed in the name of progress. Luckily, I had the updated 2009 notes I'd painstakingly copied into my guide book, so we knew to follow the service road into Cornellana to the Monastery. Our 6 bed room is full; my immediate room mate is already snoring heavily and continuously as I write this. :(