Day 16 Finsterre to Santiago de Compostela

What joy -we had only the two of us in our room last night, so uninterrupted sweet sleep. Was able to send a short group email. Packed up and walked along the water in search of cafe con leche. Ran into the couple we had seen in Melide, and were able to travel back to Santiago in a van that had dropped off a group of pilgrims earlier. Same price as the bus, and much less time than the local bus. The HUGE bonus was that I would be able to get to the noon service at the Cathedral (due to time had willingly given this up in order to see the sunrise the previous night).


After communion, I moved forward to speak with a biker I had seen on the Camino, and who was standing very close to the rope barrier. With delight and surprize, I saw the botafumerio being loaded with incense and realized we would witness the swinging of it! The silver botafumerio is a censer standing 1.6 m tall and weighing 60 kgs. It requires several men to swing the rope. I was as close as humanly possible to the botafumerio as it swung in a huge arc, flying through the air, trailing incense. My heart was so full - a final blessing of the Camino. I took a video and will include it here. The video is quite long, but you will see that the whole thing is quite the performance. Luckily Brian figured out how to straighten the video so that you are not looking at it sidewise. Thanks! You will find the video at the bottom left of this post.

It is traditional for pilgrims to pay homage to St. James the Apostle. There is a small camarin (or little chamber) behind the high altar where one can hug the statue of St. James and say a prayer of thanksgiving. Then to the crypt to visit what remains of the tomb of the Apostle and his disciples. There is an excavated chapel on whose altar rests the Apostle's Urn - a silver chest fashioned by local creftsmen in 1886. Inside the chest are the mortal remains of St. James the Apostle and his disciples Theodore and Athanasius. Photos are prohibited. On the kneeling bench I say my prayer of thanksgiving for a safe journey from Oviedo.


A late dinner after some shopping (there were windows loaded with amber). Drool...
Paris tomorrow, then home to Vancouver. Hard to believe. It is always wonderful to travel; equally wonderful to return home.

Day 15 Cee to Finsterre

Cool morning; lovely leisurely walk towards Finsterre. Wind turbines lit by soft orange sunrise. Met local folks en route - farmer with sheep, baker truck blaring a horn. At Sardineiro could see the beach - blue and beautiful. First glimpse of Finsterre is as a resort town... coloured homes, slate - so many kms of slate walkway! Sand, beach, sun...stunning visage of end of the Camino Xacobeo. Booked into the Albergue de Paz for 10 euro each - less crowded than the municiple albergue. Collected our Compostela Finsterre, enjoyed a cerveza, dipped our feet into the Atlantic, then home for the usual shower and washing of clothes. Will walk out to the lighthouse for sunset - a meaningful closure to this wonderful adventure.
The 3km uphill walk to the lighthouse is on a narrow somewhat dangerous road (at least in the dark coming home). Enjoyed cheese, wine and olives and watched the sun sinking into the Atlantic. Peaceful and joyful. Sweet. Endings and beginnings.

All I ask of you is forever to remember me as loving you...

It seems fitting to end with this line - Eileen taught this round to me, and we sang it along the trail. These are the English words that fill my heart and bring tears to my eyes. Each moment is precious. Every friendship. Every adventure.

Day 14 Santa Marina to Cee

Breakfast, then asphalt! Again, early morning fog with sunrise. I love this time of day. Uphill on a good track with wind turbines all around; the sound is strong. Green grass, pine forests and heather to Dumbria. Took a break at Capela de Nosa - visited the healing spring. A very long roadway of packed earth and planted forests. Despite the claim in the guidebook, could not see the sea from the 23.508 marker. Windy, with hedges on either side of us as we walk. What joy when you finally see the water - after all the walking.

Settled into the Insua Hotel - 15 euro each. Another angel arrived to drive us to the pharmacia. Met other pilgrims in town. Hard to believe that tomorrow will be the last day of walking in Spain.

Day 13 Negriera to Santa Marina

Breakfast, then on the road by 0800. Sunrise as we reached the church after
leaving the medieval arch at Negriera. Absolutely stunning light with
wonderful woodland trails. Wind turbines on the horizon. So many gifts
of nature. Spain has given the world an amazing gift of trails and accomodation.

I know that Canada has great hiking and trails, but accomodation for grateful Camino pilgrims does not exist as it does here in France and Spain.

Corn fields, eucalyptus groves, pine forest, crysthanthanums, roses. Saw an ewe, with twins. Passed a working bee, clearing our trails (THANK YOU!) - this one led into a corn field.

Green green grass to Vilaserio. Had lunch at a bus shelter in Cornado, out of the sun. 33 degrees - way too hot for walking on the long long stretches of asphalt; fields of corn and cows into Santa Marina.

The albergue is wonderful. Laundry is drying in the sunshine. I am sitting outside, sipping scotch. Ahhh...life is good.

We have a hotel reservation for Cee - 33kms - yike! Dinner basic, minimal value when compared to other pilgrim menus.

Day 12 Santiago de Compostela to Negriera

A later start, could see the spires of the Cathedral as we headed out of Santiago. A glorious walk - figs, kiwi, apricots, apples, peaches, grapes - taste treats for the eyes and tongue.

One very steep ascent after lunch, with benches (6!!) to rest along the way. Stopped at Ponte Maceiera - a beautiful rest spot at the rear of a restaurant overlooking a 15-16th century stone bridge and waterfalls. Propped up my feet and enjoyed a cool lemonade.

Settled later into Hotel Tamara - a lovely room. Managed reservations for tomorrow. Enjoyed a dinner for 7euro - bean soup, chicken and frites, tarte de Santiago, and the usual bottle of wine. I remember the fellow we saw en route, walking with his laden mule. I wonder where he is tonight...

Day 11 Arca to Santiago de Compostela

Cold morning, 46 degrees. Needed my turtle light initially as we walked slowly through the dark forest. Gone is the solitude. It is harder to walk with quiet intention or with prayerful meditation as there are so many more pilgrims on the trail - all with the same desire of finally reaching Santiago. The energy is hurried; most people wish to arrive for the 1200 mass at the Cathedral. I focus on breathing in the scent of eucalyptus and am left in the dust of their intention.

It is on this final day of walking that I spot the first other Canadian Company of Pilgrims badge on a pack sack - this gal from eastern Canada had walked from Le Puy, and her slow smile that lit up her face matched her slow and troubled gait. She was hurting - "feet, legs, back...you name it!" She was nevertheless determined, and happy to be almost there. We shared some laughter and some stories, and parted.

Sunshine, tarmac. There are lots of new signs (since 2006 when I walked this same path) - perhaps in preparation for the holy year in 2010.

Walked into Santiago in high spirits. Fell into the smiles and arms of familiar pilgrims posing for photos in front of the Cathedral. Many people just sitting in the sunshine, drinking in the sight they had walked so far to see. The Cathedral IS massive.

Agreed to meet Melanie for drinks at 1800 - most of that crew are headed for a huge celebratory dinner buffet. For most pilgrims, this is their final destination, having walked from many countries, on many different paths towards Santiago. We have chosen to continue to walk to Finsterra. I am wanting something simple, a long hot shower, and bed.

I was saddened to learn that they had swung the huge botafumerio at the noon service, and I had missed it! Apparently a group of Japanese had paid the fee to see it swung. This event does not occur every day, as it requires 6 men to pull the rope that swings the massive silver incense burner across the cathedral in a huge arc, trailing smoke and the scent of incense. I watch Melanie's video...several times... and imprint the swinging botafumeiro in my mind.

Joined the line to receive my Compostela (attained if you walk or bike a minimum of 100 kms into Santiago). It is both a personal and group celebration. We have decided to complete the pilgrim rituals once we return from Finsterra.

I saw Mark in the square as we were drinking beer. He draws me into his arms for a joyous dance as he sings some French dancing song. His voice is joined by others who recognize the words. My feet, earlier sore and aching, move lightly.

Enjoyed a bowl of caldo soup, home and to bed. Tired and a full heart.

Day 10 Melide to Arca

Happy Birthday, brother Bob in Prince George! Only 50.5 kms to Santiago. Beautiful forest walk with autumn colors. At the beginning of the day, someone had set up a stand selling fresh raspberries and jam, with jugs of water for the perigrinos. Such local kindness.

Stopped at Boente, took (I think!) some good shots of the Apostle Santiago in the church.

Iron worked fences with shells. The light was lovely, filtered through the trees, drawing you forward.

Passed the memorials to Guillermo Watt and Myrna Brennan; a reminder that life is fleeting .

Took a group shot at 20kms!! Decided to walk to Arca to lessen the distance needed to walk into Santiago – 33kms walked today.

Local albergue full, booked into a private hostal called Mapoula – it is lovely – Internet (but too busy and I have no interest in lining up), washer/dryer, outdoor seated area (UP the stairs, a little harder with sore legs/feet after a very long day of walking). Painted lovely colors – green, turquoise. Our dorm has a large water feature, soothing and soft.

Enjoyed some wine in the outdoor area, walked over to have caldo soup, then bed and the usual snore zone.