Day 11 Arca to Santiago de Compostela

Cold morning, 46 degrees. Needed my turtle light initially as we walked slowly through the dark forest. Gone is the solitude. It is harder to walk with quiet intention or with prayerful meditation as there are so many more pilgrims on the trail - all with the same desire of finally reaching Santiago. The energy is hurried; most people wish to arrive for the 1200 mass at the Cathedral. I focus on breathing in the scent of eucalyptus and am left in the dust of their intention.

It is on this final day of walking that I spot the first other Canadian Company of Pilgrims badge on a pack sack - this gal from eastern Canada had walked from Le Puy, and her slow smile that lit up her face matched her slow and troubled gait. She was hurting - "feet, legs, back...you name it!" She was nevertheless determined, and happy to be almost there. We shared some laughter and some stories, and parted.

Sunshine, tarmac. There are lots of new signs (since 2006 when I walked this same path) - perhaps in preparation for the holy year in 2010.

Walked into Santiago in high spirits. Fell into the smiles and arms of familiar pilgrims posing for photos in front of the Cathedral. Many people just sitting in the sunshine, drinking in the sight they had walked so far to see. The Cathedral IS massive.

Agreed to meet Melanie for drinks at 1800 - most of that crew are headed for a huge celebratory dinner buffet. For most pilgrims, this is their final destination, having walked from many countries, on many different paths towards Santiago. We have chosen to continue to walk to Finsterra. I am wanting something simple, a long hot shower, and bed.

I was saddened to learn that they had swung the huge botafumerio at the noon service, and I had missed it! Apparently a group of Japanese had paid the fee to see it swung. This event does not occur every day, as it requires 6 men to pull the rope that swings the massive silver incense burner across the cathedral in a huge arc, trailing smoke and the scent of incense. I watch Melanie's video...several times... and imprint the swinging botafumeiro in my mind.

Joined the line to receive my Compostela (attained if you walk or bike a minimum of 100 kms into Santiago). It is both a personal and group celebration. We have decided to complete the pilgrim rituals once we return from Finsterra.

I saw Mark in the square as we were drinking beer. He draws me into his arms for a joyous dance as he sings some French dancing song. His voice is joined by others who recognize the words. My feet, earlier sore and aching, move lightly.

Enjoyed a bowl of caldo soup, home and to bed. Tired and a full heart.