Lights came on automatically at 0630, so up and packed and en route. Made an incorrect uphill turn at an arrow way marking (veering left rather than right) so lost 20 minutes. A group of local hikers willing, but unable to help us find the correct road. Of course the remedy is always to go back to the original way marking– in this case, downhill.
Walked along the river near the site of an old Roman Spa. Passed through several si
ngle narrow, dangerous tunnels, and through signed villages not mentioned in the guide book – Santa Matias, San Vincente – with fields of coloured squash. Although there was to be no place to stop for food, we found the Meson Assearas Bar, and enjoyed a rest in hand-carved chairs. The nearby church is aged, and locked.Towards Bacurin, passed herds of cows and goats; laden apple trees. Found Bent from Denmark resting under a tree, not unlike some old painting. Through Taboeiro to San Roman de Retorta where it began to sprinkle, then rain in earnest. The bar before the refugio filling with tired pilgrims, but we continued to find the new albergue.
The albergue De Guntin is lovely with slate floors, the small kitchen dividing the t
wo dorms of 12 beds total. There is a separate but attached outside toilet, shower, with plenty of hot water. Bliss! Showered, then into the rain to walk back to the bar. I am often amazed at how quickly my body and energy recovers after a long day of walking. Enjoyed sliced meats, bread and beer, compliments of a fellow perigrino who said he was celebrating his birthday.
Our albergue is full; in the bar there was a couple with sour faces waiting to be picked up for a lift to a hotel somewhere. Our crew full of laughter, beer, wine and coffee that was flamed at the table.
Back at the albergue, I pulled the plastic bottle with the remaining Bokma Jonge Graanjenever (carried from Paris, purchased in the Netherlands) from my pack. Everyone had a wee taste to toast the end of another fine day.
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